Because nothing says “magical” and/or “appropriate for children” like deteriorating fiberglass monsters.
Aaaand a T-Rex Photo Bomb, for posterity
Enchanted Castle Studios was the love child of terrifying and terrifyingly campy. Owned and operated by fiberglass and foam artist Mike Cline (who still runs Foam Henge, just down the road), this amusement park-ish place featured several rides and Hollywood-ish experiences for those looking for something to do on the way to Natural Bride, Virginia. In 2001, a suspicious fire destroyed much of the studio, and it now lays dormant. But you can still peak your head in for a glimpse at some seriously ghastly, decaying dinos.
Exploring Valley of the Gods in search of the elusive Airwolf:
The Vibe Helping us in our Search
That's No Super-Powered Helicopter!
Do You See It?
Looking Over the Valley...
Road Trippin' Through Valley of the Gods
Out into Monument Valley
Moo? Moo!
From One Valley to Another
Still No Sign of the Ultra-Secret Airwolf...
A monumental road trip through one of the American Southwest’s most mysterious — and yet one of the most famous — stretches of road and rock:
Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park
Made famous by everything from Thelma and Louise to Doctor Who, this lonely highway is perhaps one of the most recognizable roadways in the world.
Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park
It stretches long and lean across the desert, two lanes, dotted with a perpetual passing zone, views that reach into the ends of the earth.
Driving into Monument Valley
But while the road is well traveled, this 92,000-acre park, home to monuments that tower almost 1,000 feet above passing cars, is largely left unexplored.
Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park
Very few get off the pavement and into the slick rock and desert sands.
Barbed
Monument Valley is a Navajo tribal park, located in and around the Navajo Nation. As such, permits are required to poke around the backcountry.
Keep Out
The Wildcat Trail is the most popular trek, a little more than three miles around West Mitten Butte, but a $5 backcountry hiking fee will allow you to go further afield.
Keep Out
But rules are strictly enforced, and park managers quickly explain to potential adventurers the sacred nature of these red rock monoliths.
Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park
No climbing, no trashing, no desecration. This land holds a deep meaning for many who venture into its canyons and ravines and cactus-laden plains.
On the Road
Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park is located between Mexican Hat, UT, and Kayenta, AZ, on US 163, straddling the state borders. There is a scenic drive you can take, in addition to numerous guided tours (including some pretty spectacular horseback trips). For more information, visit the park website. The View Restaurant (located adjacent to the visitor center outside the park) provides simple meals, a grocery and gift shop, and a motel. But remember, once you’re in the park, water and food are scarce, so come prepared to be a little bit survivalist.
Road View
Who here has ever heard of Pavillion, Wyoming? No one? Right.
So it stands to reason that no one has ever heard of Miss Ginny’s Roost Steakhouse, either, right?
Which is really too bad. This place is classic.
Pavillion is a town of fewer than 300 hearty residents and no less than 150 miles from any major road. In the middle of nowhere, this place looks up at the Wind River Mountains, down into the Wind River Indian Reservation, and over at the endless high planes of Wyoming. For most of us, there is no reason to ever go to the town; I’ve lived in the same county for four years and had never been there until this weekend. There is no way you would find yourself accidentally passing through. It boasts a post office in a double wide, a general store with a “Basketeria” sign out front, and a bar. And most importantly, The Roost.
Image courtesy of County 10
The owner, Ginny Warren, came to Wyoming after Katrina when she had finally had enough of the hurricanes. Why she chose the little cattle ranching community of Pavillion, I don’t know, but she brought with her a love of crawfish, Cajun spices, and the NOLA dining experience. I’ve seen it described on places like Trip Advisor as a “typical” cowboy steakhouse or saloon, and it’s really not, unless you’re talking just about the Old West façade out front. The building itself looks like something out of Tombstone. But inside, there is very little that screams “Wyoming” except maybe the prevalence of cowboy hats among the clientele. In fact, the interior looks more like something you’d find in rural Louisiana: pink flamingo décor, faded wood accents, perpetual Christmas lights, checkered tablecloths, plenty of kitsch to go around.
And last weekend, thanks to a random Facebook post and a brilliant idea, we found ourselves making the 40-minute trek from Lander, WY, to Pavillion (even compared to a town in the middle of nowhere, this place is in the middle of nowhere) for a New Orleans Easter Sunday Brunch. Like most of the seatings, The Roost features a multi-course, prix fix menu with your choice of Cajun or Creole or otherwise New Orleans main course.
Be forewarned: the service can be a bit (a lot) slow. Partially due to the New Orleans culture—which generally encourages sitting and enjoying and sitting and enjoying some more—and partially due to the small town and limited availability of servers. So come prepared to spend time hanging out and socializing; trust me, it’s worth it.
Our brunch looked something like this:
Starter: beignets (of course)
Second Course: three shooters of delicious soups, including carrot bisque, sausage gumbo (of which I could eat many, many more shots!), and mock turtle
Third Course: shrimp rémoulade
Salad: baby spinach, berry, goat cheese, and candied walnuts
Main Course: between the two of us, we tried the cowboy eggs Benedict, with medium-rare, locally-raised steak medallions instead of Canadian bacon; and sautéed shrimp and baked cheesy grits with a homemade, whole wheat biscuit
Dessert: we had the lemon cloud (basically a lemon custard with a graham cracker crust) and the dreamsickle cheesecake, which tasted just like an orange creamsickle (I mean, JUST like!)
And drinks: a standard mimosa; a brandy milk punch with brandy, milk, sugar, and nutmeg; an Easter egg basket of (very adult!) cheery vodka, triple sec, cream, grenadine, a coconut rim, and a peep for posterity; and a Louisiana Purchase, made with Grand Marnier, grapefruit juice, and…. Other stuff? Honestly, by that point, who cared? It was dry, crisp, and refreshing!
Me, Enjoying my Easter Egg Basket
I would just like to say that everything was delicious. The beignets were bite-sized and made a wonderful introduction to the meal. The gumbo was nothing short of amazing, and apparently Ginny serves it as a main course for dinner. The rémoulade was light and just a little spicy. My sautéed shrimp was flavorful but not spicy, but several shakes of hot sauce fixed that, and the grits were perfect. And steak instead of Canadian bacon?!?!? Holy cow! And the desserts were generous and refreshing and rich. Other main courses included a pain au chocolate, grillades (apparently akin to a chicken fried steak) with baked jalapeno grits, crawfish frittata, and biscuits and gravy. Not really vegetarian friendly, but what is in Wyoming? (Answer: absolutely nothing; this IS cattle country, after all)
The menu changes every day that they are open, and Ginny tries to emphasize ingredients that are seasonal or seasonally festive, and each dish is handpicked by the diligent, if a bit scatterbrained, owner. Currently, The Roost is open Thursday, Friday, and Saturday starting at 5:00 pm. Sometimes she gives Sunday brunches a whirl, and she often does special meals for holidays. Keep up with (often last minute) updates on Facebook or give her a call at (307) 857-6019 and leave a message. Reservations are often recommended just so Ginny knows how much of each course to prepare.
Pavillion, WY, is certainly not a place you would stumble on by happenstance, and because of the remote nature of the community, Miss Ginny’s Roost isn’t the kind of place you would just drive by and think, “Man, that looks interesting; let’s try it!” (though if you ever DID find yourself in town, it certainly would be the kind of place that would draw in random travelers) And though it’s off the beaten path, this unique, Cowboy Cajun hidaway is worth a stop, whether you’re passing through Wyoming on your way to Yellowstone or you’ve lived in Lander for years.
Winter is a great time to visit Bryce Canyon National Park: you can drive the roads, normally closed to all traffic except shuttle buses, and have the scenery all to yourself. Camping might be a little chilly, but the campground is open for those brave enough for snow camping (or lucky enough to have an RV). Roads can be icy and will close during storms, but you can still meander around. Trails can also be icy, but the year-round visitor center sells studded grips for your shoes, recommended for safety. A lot of the restaurants and hotels in the very tiny gateway town of Tropic will be closed for the season, but the planned resort community of Bryce (just outside the park entrance) is cozy and convenient.
Despite the extra effort visiting Bryce Canyon in the winter might entail, it’s well worth it to have the whole park, the red rock and the dramatic vistas, all to yourself. Visit the park’s website for more information, and definitely pop into the visitor center; the rangers are often bored this time of year and will happily chat you up about current hiking conditions and snowshoeing opportunities!
Below are my stark, dramatic, contrasting vision of this brilliant gem in Utah’s Canyon County:
Bryce Canyon in the Snow
Bryce Canyon in the Snow
Bryce Canyon in the Snow
Bryce Canyon in the Snow
After a crazy drive through Utah, this is pretty much how I felt getting out of the car, even if snow and ice covered the spires and canyons of Bryce:
Jumping For Joy!
Sure it’s the off season, and many amenities are conspicuously absent (and bathrooms conspicuously closed).
There's a Canyon Out There Somewhere
But I’ve always loved national parks in the winter, the frozen time of year, the empty season.
Looking Out
You can really get a feel for a place when there are no tourists around; you can reach out and touch its soul.
Camouflage
The people still there are people who call the place “home” and not “summer job” or “seasonal position.”
Bryce Canyon
The hardy folk who are here through the snow and winds and endless winters and call it paradise.
Bryce Canyon National Park
And in a place like Bryce Canyon, nestled in the desert and scrub of southern Utah, there is a silence in the spires that descends upon anyone who ventures into the canyons.
Bryce Canyon National Park
It’s calm and empty, and without the busloads of chattering visitors, you can actually hear the wind and the water and the rustling of beasts in the brush.
Bryce Canyon National Park
Winter is a great time to visit Bryce Canyon National Park: you can drive the roads, normally closed to all traffic except shuttle buses, and have the scenery all to yourself. Camping might be a little chilly, but the campground is open for those brave enough for snow camping (or lucky enough to have an RV). Roads can be icy and will close during storms, but you can still meander around. Trails can also be icy, but the year-round visitor center sells studded grips for your shoes, recommended for safety. A lot of the restaurants and hotels in the very tiny gateway town of Tropic will be closed for the season, but the planned resort community of Bryce (just outside the park entrance) is cozy and convenient.
Bryce Canyon National Park
Despite the extra effort visiting Bryce Canyon in the winter might entail, it’s well worth it to have the whole park, the red rock and the dramatic vistas, all to yourself. Visit the park’s website for more information, and definitely pop into the visitor center; the rangers are often bored this time of year and will happily chat you up about current hiking conditions and snowshoeing opportunities!
The Sun Peaks Through...
Camping inside a national park can be a wonderful way to get to know a place. Many of the facilities are lovingly created to give visitors up-close encounters with what makes a particular park great: in Arches, you get to sleep in the nooks and crannies of slick rock and in the shadows of the arches; in Yellowstone, you sleep surrounded by elk and bison while listening to the lullabies of wolves; on Assateague Island, you can camp right on the beach. It doesn’t get much better than that.
Camping on the Beach in Hawaii
But I often hesitate to make a commitment to NPS campgrounds, not because of a fear of wildlife or poor facilities, but because of my fellow campers. When they leave home to embark on an adventure, even the most upstanding of people can sometimes forget that while on vacation, you still have to be respectful of those around you. Parents who would never let their children wreak havoc in a restaurant at home suddenly let their offspring run rampant and uncontrolled through a geyser basin. People who have the utmost respect for the wildlife in their backyard are suddenly throwing rocks and honking at bison to get their attention for a better photo. Homeowners with manicured, private, fenced-in yards back in New Jersey will wander right onto the back porch of a national park local just to see an elk or because “I can’t see the stars from my hotel room” (this actually happened to me when I worked in Yellowstone and lived in Gardiner, MT, and the guy was so upset that I didn’t seem to want him standing next to my back door).
And campgrounds are no exception. But here is a short list of No-Nos for those of us who want to stay inside a national park in the future, inspired by the incidents I have observed most often while traveling:
1) Don’t stay up all night drinking and loudly reminiscing about your Greek experience in college or that one hunting trip about which you remember nothing, which must mean it was epic, right? Nobody else in the campground wants to hear about your glory days. That’s what national forest campgrounds are for (I’m kidding. Sort of).
2) Don’t wash your dirty bowls in bathroom sinks, especially if there’s a GIANT SIGN on the door that says, “Please do not wash dirty dishes in the bathroom sinks.” As someone who has worked for both the National Park Service and a concessionaire, I can honestly say that this rule isn’t there to inconvenience you or somehow weed out the experienced traveler from the novice, who actually follows the rules. Simply, the plumbing in park bathrooms are inevitably old and/or cheap (for valid budgetary reasons), and getting in there to clear out even the smallest food bits is difficult and costly (parks are already severely underfunded), especially in the high season. They most often provide a whole dishwashing tub right around the corner just for you, but if you think it’s too cold or too inconvenient, eat at a restaurant next time.
The Campground in Arches National Park
3) Don’t run your generator at 4 am. The rest of us are just as cold/hot/hungry/sleepless/bored as you are, so grow some stones and deal with it until quiet hours are over.
4) Don’t let your children sing songs in their tent all morning long. You might think it’s adorable and a way to distract them while you’re doing other things, but your neighbors resent you. Tents may provide some privacy, but they definitely are NOT soundproof.
5) Don’t leave your cars keys somewhere in your tent where you can roll over on them and accidentally set off your car alarm. Period.
6) Don’t answer your cell phone and proceed to stand next to another campsite because you don’t want to disturb the people at your own site. No one wants to hear your vapid conversation when you should be enjoying the natural beauty of our national parks.
7) Don’t leave food out. This is a big one that people never seen to grasp. It’s a serious danger in grizzly country (as in, people and bears both die). But it’s also dangerous to less aggressive wildlife in other parks, as well as being a general nuisance. You won’t think those magpies ravaging through your goods are quite as funny when a park ranger slaps you with a hefty ticket (and not paying it will result in a federal warrant issued for your arrest, so keep that time mind).
And please, don't burn down your tent in the morning; it's rude.
Intermittent rain? Blustery day? Anytime in the 9-month Canadian winter?
Inside the Montreal Biodome
If you’re visiting Montreal most months of the year, you might be hard pressed to find a nice day to be outside. Luckily, the Quebec City offers plenty of things to do inside, for those of us not thrilled with fast winds and frozen air.
Inside the Montreal Biodome
The Biodôme de Montréal is an indoor zoo cum botanical garden, with exhibits that address each of the habitats found in Quebec. They market it as a great place to take your kids, but let’s be honest: any adult with a love of wildlife will be enthralled with the Biodome’s puffins, baby lynx, poison dart frogs, and — if you’re either lucky or very, very good at spotting critters — sloths.
Inside the Montreal Biodome
The Biodome features the “Ecosystems of the Americas,” five different habitats that highlight the diversity of the Western Hemisphere.
Porcupine!
The Labrador Coast is home to the ridiculously awesome puffin. If you haven’t seen one of these little guys yet, I can assure you you will fall in love instantly with their weird little beaks and cross-eyed stares.
Fish Eye View
The Laurentian Maple Forest is kept at seasonal conditions, which means that in fall, the air is cool inside and the leaves fall from the trees. In the summer, it’s quite warm and your surroundings are green and lush. It’s a neat trick, so make sure you dress accordingly.
Baby Lynx!
And don’t forget to stop by the lynx enclosure, where mother and kitten frolic together in the woodland paradise. When you watch them, it’s hard to figure out why people would prefer these playful cats stuffed on shelves instead of playing and purring in the mountain woods.
Because Who Doesn't Love Otters?
There is a display paying homage to the sub-Arctic Islands of the frigid north, featuring every kid’s favorite bird: the penguin. Crowds love hanging out and watching the antics of these playful and curious creatures. We even watched a penguin play with a toddler from the other side of the glass, much to everyone’s delight.
Inside the Montreal Biodome
The Gulf of St. Lawrence gives visitors an underwater view of the chilly rivers of Quebec and all of the largely creepy fish that stalk the murky depths.
Golden Tamarin
And the tropical rainforest, a perennial favorite, allows visitors to interact with tamarins and macaws, seek high and low for secretive sloths, and come face-to-face with poison dart frogs.
Poison Dart Frogs are the Best Frogs
The Biodome shares a complex with the Insectarium, Botanical Gardens, and (soon) the Planetarium. It’s easy to get to: just hop on the subway to the Viau stop. Rates are 18.75 CD for adults, 14 CD for students, and 9.50 CD for children, with deals for families and those who want to visit multiple attractions. The Biodome is open 9-5 everyday but Sunday.
Poison Dart Frogs are the Best Frogs
There’s not much to Hudson, Wyoming, anymore. A stonemason shop, a steakhouse (rumored to also be the first pizza joint in the state) that has been there since the mid-1900s and is run by a Yugoslavian family, and even a dodgy-looking “fine family dancing” establishment. A crumbling building from the Wild West days with fading advertisements for rooms and sheriffs.
Hudson Badlands
For most people, Hudson is that annoying half-mile stretch of road where the speed limit goes from a loose 65 mph to a well-enforced 30. Or where we go to get our local, sustainably-raised beef from Wyoming Custom Meats. And you can’t see much from the road. Trailers. Dusty gas hills. Desert plains covered with little more than sage.
Hudson Badlands
But the lonely highway and the fading Old West facade have their secrets, the little things they hide away from prying eyes. Hudson hides a century of mining, open hunting grounds, and, if you dig deep enough, a badlands playground.
Hudson Hawk... er, Owl. Wah wah.
Badlands are relatively rare geological features that appear when soft rock is worn away by wind and water, creating spectacular ravines and hoodoos of colors ranging from uranium green to sunset orange. To the Lakota, the features were Makhóšiča, bad land. To the French, they were les mauvaises terres à traverser, the bad lands to cross. Some are famous: Badlands National Park is a popular road trip destination on the way to or from the Black Hills of South Dakota. Hell’s Half Acre outside of Casper, WY, played host to Klendathu, the insectoid planet in Starship Troopers.
Hudson Badlands
But often, badlands are abandoned, lost, places people pass by without stopping. Deserts devoid of water and life. In Hudson, the badlands are quiet, hidden-away nooks and crannies for skeet shooting, ATV racing and other adventures. They aren’t a closely-guarded secret as much as a forgotten pastime, but that doesn’t make them any less fascinating, burnt scars in a desolate high desert.
Hudson Badlands
These quietly stunning features are a few miles off Highway 789 in Hudson, WY. Take Ohio Avenue (not always marked) south out of town. Note: once the pavement stops, roads may be impassable when wet.
Hudson Badlands
With its efficient subway system and vast bus routes, Montreal is an easy enough city to get around on foot. Even if your destination is a mile away, the unique architecture and streets full of restaurants, bars, and stores will keep you distracted from the distance.
The Montreal Skyline
There are a few musts in the city, including Parc du Mont Royal, the massive mound of extinct volcano that’s hard to miss in the center of town. It’s an all-season destination, full of runners, cyclists, and tourists in the non-snowy months and of sledders and skiers when the weather turns blustery.
Mount Royal Chalet
The park is also famous for its Tam Tam Jams, groups of people of all ages and backgrounds that gather together at the George-Étienne Cartier Monument to drum from sunup to sundown and beyond throughout the summer.
Mount Royal Chalet
Once you’re finished with the athletic pursuits, hop the Metro green line to Place-d’Armes and visit the historic and glamorous Basilique Notre-Dame de Montréal in Vieux-Montréal (Old Montreal).
Basilique Notre-Dame de Montréal
A 6 CAD “donation” (cover charge?) gets you inside, where you can explore the rows of stained glass and the intricate chapels tucked away within.
[Due to pretty glorious human error by yours truly, all photos I had of the interior are now lost to cyberspace... it's one of my many superpowers]
Wandering around Old Montreal is a natural extension of a trip to the basilica, and stone-lined streets wind their way around cozy bars, French-style cafes, and views as close to European as you can get in North America.
Vieux-Montréal
There are lots of weird things to see… head shops of all ilk, giant wooden phallic statues, and, of course, that fine line between flapper and storm trooper.
Creeper Storm Trooper. Because of course.
If you’re in the mood for fresh fruits, veggies, bread, and even an eclectic selection of specialty beers, head over to the Atwater Market. This sprawling, art deco shopping center is close to downtown on the corner of Notre-Dame and Atwater; hop the green or orange metro line to the Lionel-Groulx station.
Atwater Market
When you’ve done your shopping, get back on the green line to Pie-IX station, where you can take a stroll through the very Soviet-looking Olympic Park, home to many of the venues of the 1976 Summer Olympics.
Parc olympique, Montreal
Attractions include the Biodome, the Montreal Botanical Garden and the Insectarium, as well as Olympic structures available to tour.
Hail the USSR!
