Wyoming is known neither for its stand-up stand-up comedy nor its unique culinary traditions (steak!).
But every once in a while, in one of the quirky towns that dot the wind-blown landscape, the restless locals pull together an event — usually spawned by the long winter isolation and weeks of below-freezing (if not below zero) temps — that rivals anything you can find in the Big City. Good food, good drink, good laughs.
On this chilly September evening, as the nights grew longer and the days colder, all of us who appreciated good (crude) comedy headed down to The Middle Fork, a boutique, chef-owned restaurant in the heart of historic downtown Lander, to enjoy the acidic and surprisingly nostalgic humor of young Vince Tropea, an up-and-coming stand-up comedian working his way through the Western contingent.
During his two sets, Vince kept the audiences rolling with laughter, and he kept a good handful of jokes for us Ohio natives and Ohio University alum. His incredible eye for detail captures the absurdity of real life, and his twisted sense of humor leaves no inappropriate subject untouched.
In between sets, Vince sifted through the crowd, flirting and schmoozing with his adoring audience.
His show was accompanied by what has quickly become one of the staples of Lander life: food and drink from The Middle Fork. This breakfast and lunch place, tucked into a quiet venue next to Gannet Peak Sports on Main Street, is a relatively new addition to this small town, but an indispensable one. Everything is made in-house, including pastas, sausage gravy, handcut fries, and corned beef. They have a unique take on eggs Benedict that is worth the 2-hour drive up from I-80 (the nearest interstate), their French press coffee is strong and smooth, and their other seasonally-changing menu items are some of the best in the state and beyond. Not bad for a town of 7,000 people. Service can be a bit slow, but it allows for time to sit down, relax, sip your coffee, and enjoy some people watching from the sidewalk bistro tables or the gurgling flow of the stream that runs through their outside patio.
Inside, The Middle Fork takes full advantage of the historical details that dot every corner of the building: classic crown molding, restored wood floors, and a distinctive 1920s flair. It’s the perfect venue for any event, especially a stand-up comedy night full of gratuitous insults and acerbic wit.
If you ever get the chance to see Vince Tropea, sometime in YOUR town, don’t miss it. The guy is young and ballsy and terrific and puts on one helluva show. And if you’re ever in Lander, Wyoming, don’t forget to stop in for lunch or breakfast or brunch at The Middle Fork for one of the only gourmet, non-steak (and certainly one of the best) meals you’ll find in Wyoming.
Because nothing says “magical” and/or “appropriate for children” like deteriorating fiberglass monsters.
Enchanted Castle Studios was the love child of terrifying and terrifyingly campy. Owned and operated by fiberglass and foam artist Mike Cline (who still runs Foam Henge, just down the road), this amusement park-ish place featured several rides and Hollywood-ish experiences for those looking for something to do on the way to Natural Bride, Virginia. In 2001, a suspicious fire destroyed much of the studio, and it now lays dormant. But you can still peak your head in for a glimpse at some seriously ghastly, decaying dinos.
Exploring Valley of the Gods in search of the elusive Airwolf:
A monumental road trip through one of the American Southwest’s most mysterious — and yet one of the most famous — stretches of road and rock:
Made famous by everything from Thelma and Louise to Doctor Who, this lonely highway is perhaps one of the most recognizable roadways in the world.
It stretches long and lean across the desert, two lanes, dotted with a perpetual passing zone, views that reach into the ends of the earth.
But while the road is well traveled, this 92,000-acre park, home to monuments that tower almost 1,000 feet above passing cars, is largely left unexplored.
Very few get off the pavement and into the slick rock and desert sands.
Monument Valley is a Navajo tribal park, located in and around the Navajo Nation. As such, permits are required to poke around the backcountry.
The Wildcat Trail is the most popular trek, a little more than three miles around West Mitten Butte, but a $5 backcountry hiking fee will allow you to go further afield.
But rules are strictly enforced, and park managers quickly explain to potential adventurers the sacred nature of these red rock monoliths.
No climbing, no trashing, no desecration. This land holds a deep meaning for many who venture into its canyons and ravines and cactus-laden plains.
Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park is located between Mexican Hat, UT, and Kayenta, AZ, on US 163, straddling the state borders. There is a scenic drive you can take, in addition to numerous guided tours (including some pretty spectacular horseback trips). For more information, visit the park website. The View Restaurant (located adjacent to the visitor center outside the park) provides simple meals, a grocery and gift shop, and a motel. But remember, once you’re in the park, water and food are scarce, so come prepared to be a little bit survivalist.
Who here has ever heard of Pavillion, Wyoming? No one? Right.
So it stands to reason that no one has ever heard of Miss Ginny’s Roost Steakhouse, either, right?
Which is really too bad. This place is classic.
Pavillion is a town of fewer than 300 hearty residents and no less than 150 miles from any major road. In the middle of nowhere, this place looks up at the Wind River Mountains, down into the Wind River Indian Reservation, and over at the endless high planes of Wyoming. For most of us, there is no reason to ever go to the town; I’ve lived in the same county for four years and had never been there until this weekend. There is no way you would find yourself accidentally passing through. It boasts a post office in a double wide, a general store with a “Basketeria” sign out front, and a bar. And most importantly, The Roost.
The owner, Ginny Warren, came to Wyoming after Katrina when she had finally had enough of the hurricanes. Why she chose the little cattle ranching community of Pavillion, I don’t know, but she brought with her a love of crawfish, Cajun spices, and the NOLA dining experience. I’ve seen it described on places like Trip Advisor as a “typical” cowboy steakhouse or saloon, and it’s really not, unless you’re talking just about the Old West façade out front. The building itself looks like something out of Tombstone. But inside, there is very little that screams “Wyoming” except maybe the prevalence of cowboy hats among the clientele. In fact, the interior looks more like something you’d find in rural Louisiana: pink flamingo décor, faded wood accents, perpetual Christmas lights, checkered tablecloths, plenty of kitsch to go around.
And last weekend, thanks to a random Facebook post and a brilliant idea, we found ourselves making the 40-minute trek from Lander, WY, to Pavillion (even compared to a town in the middle of nowhere, this place is in the middle of nowhere) for a New Orleans Easter Sunday Brunch. Like most of the seatings, The Roost features a multi-course, prix fix menu with your choice of Cajun or Creole or otherwise New Orleans main course.
Be forewarned: the service can be a bit (a lot) slow. Partially due to the New Orleans culture—which generally encourages sitting and enjoying and sitting and enjoying some more—and partially due to the small town and limited availability of servers. So come prepared to spend time hanging out and socializing; trust me, it’s worth it.
Our brunch looked something like this:
Starter: beignets (of course)
Second Course: three shooters of delicious soups, including carrot bisque, sausage gumbo (of which I could eat many, many more shots!), and mock turtle
Third Course: shrimp rémoulade
Salad: baby spinach, berry, goat cheese, and candied walnuts
Main Course: between the two of us, we tried the cowboy eggs Benedict, with medium-rare, locally-raised steak medallions instead of Canadian bacon; and sautéed shrimp and baked cheesy grits with a homemade, whole wheat biscuit
Dessert: we had the lemon cloud (basically a lemon custard with a graham cracker crust) and the dreamsickle cheesecake, which tasted just like an orange creamsickle (I mean, JUST like!)
And drinks: a standard mimosa; a brandy milk punch with brandy, milk, sugar, and nutmeg; an Easter egg basket of (very adult!) cheery vodka, triple sec, cream, grenadine, a coconut rim, and a peep for posterity; and a Louisiana Purchase, made with Grand Marnier, grapefruit juice, and…. Other stuff? Honestly, by that point, who cared? It was dry, crisp, and refreshing!
I would just like to say that everything was delicious. The beignets were bite-sized and made a wonderful introduction to the meal. The gumbo was nothing short of amazing, and apparently Ginny serves it as a main course for dinner. The rémoulade was light and just a little spicy. My sautéed shrimp was flavorful but not spicy, but several shakes of hot sauce fixed that, and the grits were perfect. And steak instead of Canadian bacon?!?!? Holy cow! And the desserts were generous and refreshing and rich. Other main courses included a pain au chocolate, grillades (apparently akin to a chicken fried steak) with baked jalapeno grits, crawfish frittata, and biscuits and gravy. Not really vegetarian friendly, but what is in Wyoming? (Answer: absolutely nothing; this IS cattle country, after all)
The menu changes every day that they are open, and Ginny tries to emphasize ingredients that are seasonal or seasonally festive, and each dish is handpicked by the diligent, if a bit scatterbrained, owner. Currently, The Roost is open Thursday, Friday, and Saturday starting at 5:00 pm. Sometimes she gives Sunday brunches a whirl, and she often does special meals for holidays. Keep up with (often last minute) updates on Facebook or give her a call at (307) 857-6019 and leave a message. Reservations are often recommended just so Ginny knows how much of each course to prepare.
Pavillion, WY, is certainly not a place you would stumble on by happenstance, and because of the remote nature of the community, Miss Ginny’s Roost isn’t the kind of place you would just drive by and think, “Man, that looks interesting; let’s try it!” (though if you ever DID find yourself in town, it certainly would be the kind of place that would draw in random travelers) And though it’s off the beaten path, this unique, Cowboy Cajun hidaway is worth a stop, whether you’re passing through Wyoming on your way to Yellowstone or you’ve lived in Lander for years.
Winter is a great time to visit Bryce Canyon National Park: you can drive the roads, normally closed to all traffic except shuttle buses, and have the scenery all to yourself. Camping might be a little chilly, but the campground is open for those brave enough for snow camping (or lucky enough to have an RV). Roads can be icy and will close during storms, but you can still meander around. Trails can also be icy, but the year-round visitor center sells studded grips for your shoes, recommended for safety. A lot of the restaurants and hotels in the very tiny gateway town of Tropic will be closed for the season, but the planned resort community of Bryce (just outside the park entrance) is cozy and convenient.
Despite the extra effort visiting Bryce Canyon in the winter might entail, it’s well worth it to have the whole park, the red rock and the dramatic vistas, all to yourself. Visit the park’s website for more information, and definitely pop into the visitor center; the rangers are often bored this time of year and will happily chat you up about current hiking conditions and snowshoeing opportunities!
Below are my stark, dramatic, contrasting vision of this brilliant gem in Utah’s Canyon County:
After a crazy drive through Utah, this is pretty much how I felt getting out of the car, even if snow and ice covered the spires and canyons of Bryce:
Sure it’s the off season, and many amenities are conspicuously absent (and bathrooms conspicuously closed).
But I’ve always loved national parks in the winter, the frozen time of year, the empty season.
You can really get a feel for a place when there are no tourists around; you can reach out and touch its soul.
The people still there are people who call the place “home” and not “summer job” or “seasonal position.”
The hardy folk who are here through the snow and winds and endless winters and call it paradise.
And in a place like Bryce Canyon, nestled in the desert and scrub of southern Utah, there is a silence in the spires that descends upon anyone who ventures into the canyons.
It’s calm and empty, and without the busloads of chattering visitors, you can actually hear the wind and the water and the rustling of beasts in the brush.
Winter is a great time to visit Bryce Canyon National Park: you can drive the roads, normally closed to all traffic except shuttle buses, and have the scenery all to yourself. Camping might be a little chilly, but the campground is open for those brave enough for snow camping (or lucky enough to have an RV). Roads can be icy and will close during storms, but you can still meander around. Trails can also be icy, but the year-round visitor center sells studded grips for your shoes, recommended for safety. A lot of the restaurants and hotels in the very tiny gateway town of Tropic will be closed for the season, but the planned resort community of Bryce (just outside the park entrance) is cozy and convenient.
Despite the extra effort visiting Bryce Canyon in the winter might entail, it’s well worth it to have the whole park, the red rock and the dramatic vistas, all to yourself. Visit the park’s website for more information, and definitely pop into the visitor center; the rangers are often bored this time of year and will happily chat you up about current hiking conditions and snowshoeing opportunities!
Camping inside a national park can be a wonderful way to get to know a place. Many of the facilities are lovingly created to give visitors up-close encounters with what makes a particular park great: in Arches, you get to sleep in the nooks and crannies of slick rock and in the shadows of the arches; in Yellowstone, you sleep surrounded by elk and bison while listening to the lullabies of wolves; on Assateague Island, you can camp right on the beach. It doesn’t get much better than that.
But I often hesitate to make a commitment to NPS campgrounds, not because of a fear of wildlife or poor facilities, but because of my fellow campers. When they leave home to embark on an adventure, even the most upstanding of people can sometimes forget that while on vacation, you still have to be respectful of those around you. Parents who would never let their children wreak havoc in a restaurant at home suddenly let their offspring run rampant and uncontrolled through a geyser basin. People who have the utmost respect for the wildlife in their backyard are suddenly throwing rocks and honking at bison to get their attention for a better photo. Homeowners with manicured, private, fenced-in yards back in New Jersey will wander right onto the back porch of a national park local just to see an elk or because “I can’t see the stars from my hotel room” (this actually happened to me when I worked in Yellowstone and lived in Gardiner, MT, and the guy was so upset that I didn’t seem to want him standing next to my back door).
And campgrounds are no exception. But here is a short list of No-Nos for those of us who want to stay inside a national park in the future, inspired by the incidents I have observed most often while traveling:
1) Don’t stay up all night drinking and loudly reminiscing about your Greek experience in college or that one hunting trip about which you remember nothing, which must mean it was epic, right? Nobody else in the campground wants to hear about your glory days. That’s what national forest campgrounds are for (I’m kidding. Sort of).
2) Don’t wash your dirty bowls in bathroom sinks, especially if there’s a GIANT SIGN on the door that says, “Please do not wash dirty dishes in the bathroom sinks.” As someone who has worked for both the National Park Service and a concessionaire, I can honestly say that this rule isn’t there to inconvenience you or somehow weed out the experienced traveler from the novice, who actually follows the rules. Simply, the plumbing in park bathrooms are inevitably old and/or cheap (for valid budgetary reasons), and getting in there to clear out even the smallest food bits is difficult and costly (parks are already severely underfunded), especially in the high season. They most often provide a whole dishwashing tub right around the corner just for you, but if you think it’s too cold or too inconvenient, eat at a restaurant next time.
3) Don’t run your generator at 4 am. The rest of us are just as cold/hot/hungry/sleepless/bored as you are, so grow some stones and deal with it until quiet hours are over.
4) Don’t let your children sing songs in their tent all morning long. You might think it’s adorable and a way to distract them while you’re doing other things, but your neighbors resent you. Tents may provide some privacy, but they definitely are NOT soundproof.
5) Don’t leave your cars keys somewhere in your tent where you can roll over on them and accidentally set off your car alarm. Period.
6) Don’t answer your cell phone and proceed to stand next to another campsite because you don’t want to disturb the people at your own site. No one wants to hear your vapid conversation when you should be enjoying the natural beauty of our national parks.
7) Don’t leave food out. This is a big one that people never seen to grasp. It’s a serious danger in grizzly country (as in, people and bears both die). But it’s also dangerous to less aggressive wildlife in other parks, as well as being a general nuisance. You won’t think those magpies ravaging through your goods are quite as funny when a park ranger slaps you with a hefty ticket (and not paying it will result in a federal warrant issued for your arrest, so keep that time mind).
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